The power of space and silence

Torres del Paine National Park was today’s agenda. It’s 90-120 minutes from Puerto Natales, so we got a pretty early start to maximize daylight hours. Our first sighting: a flamingo.

Flamingo on the side of the road

We have 2 guide books with us. Both talk extensively about doing the multi-day hiking treks through the park, but none mention driving in any detail. Both briefly mention that one can visit in winter, but say nothing more on the topic. I was truthfully nervous for what we would find when we got there given how little the books discuss winter travel. I can happily report that, at least in late August, the park is east to navigate. No snow or ice at lower elevations, and the roads are easy enough to navigate (an SUV is a good idea, but only because the roads are all gravel and sometimes washboarded).

First glimpses of the mountains

Through the day, one of the things that caught my attention time and time again was the silence. No cars, no city noises, no other people, and not even animal sounds. Just a total, still, absolute silence. That might be the very first time I can recall experiencing that.

Torres, the famous granite towers which give the park its name
Cascada del Rio Paine (Paine River waterfall)

For those not committed to doing long or overnight hikes, winter is a fabulous time to come to Torres del Paine. We saw maybe a dozen other people across the whole day. This profound sense of being alone, combined with the vast spaces and total silence of the park was simply other-worldly.

Laguna Larga
Salto Grande
Southern Crested Caracara
Laguna Grey, with the bright blue Grey Glacier just barely visible in the background

As we drove home, Luke suggested we do the W circuit or something like it. Uhm, ok! I love a great hike, and if so can combine hiking with not needing to camp, I’m totally down.

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