Apparently, old dogs can learn new tricks

Wednesday was a travel day. We checked out of our hotel, loaded up into the minibus, and took off for Chablis. There’s a running joke now about seeing wildlife after I got excited about seeing some cows and horses, so now we point out all animals. This drive was an animal bonanza as we drove through the agricultural heartland of France. We also passed some wind turbines (I can’t explain why, but I find them to be somewhat elegant) and a medieval castle complete with its fortress walls.

I had a vague sense of Chablis being related to wine, but for some reason, it was in my head as something cheap. Maybe because it’s a white wine and I always thought that I didn’t like white wines? Anyway, we tour this facility and learn more about how they grow, select, and make Chablis – the signature Chardonnay from the region.

Oh. My. Gosh. This stuff is sooooo good. I learned a wine-tasting concept that explains some of what I like in a white wine: a buttery taste balanced with acidity. Some white wines have a high acid content which makes them a bit more forward-facing and even a bit tangy (like a green apple), and others can be so buttery that there’s no acid left at all. Chablis seems to have a perfect blend. It has enough acidity to be perky, but enough buttery to be smooth and mellow. Delightful!

Chablis region is Chardonnay only. Tasting wine from one hill and comparing it to the wine from the hill that has the opposite sun exposure is wild. You really can taste the difference.

This town is tiny (like 2200 people tiny), so walking around didn’t take long. We loaded back into the bus, buckled in our wine purchases, and headed off for Vernou-en-Sologne in the Loire valley.

I’ll let the pictures describe the place since words won’t cut it.

Is that a castle?
Yeah, basically.

While the gang unpacked, I had to take a work call. I then met up with them in the restaurant.

This place makes a guest feel like royalty!

As expected, the food was wonderful. Americans eat total garbage compared to the French. Here, every ingredient is pronounceable, identifiable, and traceable. There are no chemicals, preservatives, stabilizers, flavor enhancers, colors, etc. French cuisine features lots of cream and butter, but portions are modest and satisfying.

I had a Caesar salad which was presented in a very novel manner and a lemon soufflé with ice cream for dessert. It tasted absolutely amazing!

Thursday is a longer bike day, so we trucked off to bed after dinner to rest up before hitting the road!

AI content

Tuesday was going to be cold. 47 degrees (feels like temp of 42) when we were scheduled to hit the road at 8am. I apparently packed without looking at the weather forecast or double-checking what I brought. I have no long sleeves. One pair of long leggings. No full-finger gloves. And I have to admit (Luke, queue up the “I told you so”), no packable jacket. So I am not at all prepared for cold weather.

Thankfully, it was sunny and the wind from the night before died down, so it was actually quite comfortable in my t-shirt and long-sleeved windbreaker jacket. And my single pair of long leggings. 🙂

We set out for the first half of the day: 25.4 mi/991 ft gain ride to Beaune. The scenery along the way was so spectacular that it simply looked like an AI-generated landscape.

Looking good, Amanda!
Bright red poppies line the roadsides

We arrived in the town of Beaune around noon. After exploring for a bit, we set off on our own for lunch and maybe some shopping and/or a beer. Some quick baguette sandwiches from a boulengerie, a stroll through town, and then a light and cold beer at an outside patio made for a perfect midday break.

I enjoyed most of the morning ride, but one segment of uphill was just too much for my lungs given their current post-Covid depleted state. I managed to complete the ride segment, but didn’t have it in me to do the afternoon ride which had the same elevation but in half the distance so I opted to ride in the van to the next stop – wine tasting. My fellow riders rolled in tired and sweaty and did nothing to convince me that I would’ve enjoyed that second ride of the day.

At this winery, we tried 3 white wines (all Chardonnay) and 3 red wines (all Pinot noir). They do what’s called a horizontal tasting in which you try wines that are the same type and year but that vary by geographical location. I never would’ve thought that wines from just down the road or just up the same hill could taste so different, but they really, really do. After trying the Grand Cru (best), the other wines suddenly are clearly inferior.

Burgundy wines have reputations for being some of the best in the world, and ai can see why. These are truly exceptional!

Souvenirs of the best kind

After enjoying our wine, we headed back to the hotel, enjoying one last dinner at the hotel restaurant. Mother Nature put on quite the farewell show for us!

Another AI-inspired photo

Rain, rain, go away

After arriving in Lyon truly exhausted, I did my best to sleep before meeting up with my travel companions for the 2-hour ride out to our first hotel.

Château De Saulon is a 17th century “castle” turned hotel, complete with its own small forest. It’s nestled between fields and tiny (and I mean tiny!) villages for an exceptionally quaint setting.


Château De Saulon

Before dinner, we got set up with our gear. I wasn’t sure about this whole organized tour thing, but boy, it’s super nice not having to do anything at all to plan. The company provided nice bikes which were already set up according to our reported specs. They gave us helmets and water bottles, they tune the bikes up each day, and they transport the bikes (and us, if needed), so there’s never pressure to do something we do not want to do.

This morning we had breakfast, put on our purple tutus (gotta have swag!) and set off for ~20 miles of riding. Weather wasn’t totally on our side, so we did our best to time the ride during the break in the rain. We mostly (but not completely) succeeded.

The Burgundy valley is really gorgeous. Vineyards are truly everywhere, and the villages we did pass through were very small and looked as if the last 3 centuries haven’t happened.

We stopped at an 11th century abbey that used to make wine, then headed off to lunch. I’m making it my goal to have cheese at every meal because the cheese here is simply unlike anything I can get in the US. Same with the wine – it’s amazing.

I’ll learn more tomorrow when we visit a winery, but I know that Burgundy wine only comes in 3 kinds: Pinot noir for red, Chardonnay for white, and Crémant for sparkling. That’s it. The idea is that if the grapes are all the same type, it’s easier to determine the quality variations from soil, elevation, etc.

After a hearty lunch (all French meals are hearty), we went back to the hotel to shower and rest before our trip to Dijon. I wasn’t sure that I wanted to go on this optional tour because I’m not super into French history, but I’m glad I went. Dijon, it seems, has a history all its own that’s almost divorced from French history. It had Dukes and wasn’t typically under the rule of the French king, it was closely tied with (and often ruled) Belgium and the Netherlands, and it doesn’t have a medieval history.

Italian style church
Many street corners have these cute little decorations at the street name placard

We tried Dijon mustard and learned that, unlike Champagne or Parmesan cheese, it’s not a protected product. If you have the recipe, you can make Dijon mustard and market it as such, although I have to say, the stuff here has a much stronger kick to it, similar to horseradish.

It was freeeeezing out, so after finishing our tour, we piled into the first restaurant we saw and had dinner. I had sea bream in a light cheese sauce and a side of cauliflower gratin with emmentaler. It was very good, and very affordable!

Food here has been consistently wonderful. Portions aren’t too big, but every ingredient tastes fresh and important for the meal, and you feel satisfied. I am absolutely certain that they are not conservative with the amount of butter that they add to everything! And there’s a surprising amount of fish given that this region isn’t coastal in any way, but it’s always tasted fresh!

Liberty plaza at sunset
Shannon, accidentally posing for the camera!

If you’re going to bike, you might as well bike French wine country

Amanda asked if I’d be interested in joining her, her mom, and her sister-in-law (all people I know and have spent time with before) on a bike trip through wine country in France. I’m game for pretty much anything, so here I am in Lisbon, boarding my flight to Lyon, France.

Food in Europe is so good. Even simple things, like a sandwich. Camembert with a little fresh butter and lettuce on a delightful sesame baguette. Mmmm!

Our itinerary looks great!

Day 1: Saturday, May 09 – outward journey

Day 2: Sunday, May 10 – Lyon – Château de Saulon (hotel)

11:00 AM ​Meet at Lyon airport – Terminal 1

11:15 AMMini van transfer to Château de Saulon

01:45 PM​Lunch at Château de Saulon

03:15 PMTime to explore the surroundings

04:15 PM​Welcome drinks 

04:30 PMBike fitting & welcome orientation

05:30 PM​Free afternoon

07:00 PM​Dinner at Château de Saulon

 

Day 3: Monday, May 11 – Château du Clos de Vougeot – La Cuverie de Vosne – Dijon 

07:30 AM Breakfast

08:45 AMBike ride – Château de Saulon to La Cuverie de Vosne-Romanée via Château du Clos de Vougeot: 19.5 mi/31.4 km – 707 ft/215 m elevation gain

10:30 AMVisit Château du Clos de Vougeot (11:30 AM English guided tour)

11:30 AM​Bike ride (part 2) – Château du Clos de Vougeot to Cuverie de Vosne-Romanée

12:30 PM​Lunch & wine tasting at La Cuverie de Vosne-Romanée

02:30 PMEF van transfer back to our hotel

03:15 PMFree afternoon at the hotel 

 

Day 4: Tuesday, May 12 – Beaune – Château Philippe le Hardi

07:00 AM Breakfast

08:15 AMBike ride (option A) – Château de Saulon to Beaune: 25.4 mi/40.9 km – 991 ft/302 m elevation gain

11:00 AMBeaune walking tour & Gougères tasting

12:00 PM​Lunch break

01:30 PMBike ride (option B) or transfer – Beauneto Château Philippe le Hardi: 14.2 mi/22.9 km – 816 ft/249 m elevation gain

03:30 PM​Wine tasting at Château Philippe le Hardi

04:30 PMTaxi transfer back to our hotel

06:00 PM​Free evening at the hotel or to further explore the area on your own 

 

Day 5: Wednesday, May 13 – Chablis – Vernou-en-Sologne

07:30 AM Breakfast

08:45 AM​Transfer to Chablis

11:00 AMWinery cellar tour and wine tasting atDomaine Long-Depaquit

12:00 PM​Stroll through Chablis​

12:30 PM​Lunch at restaurant Kimm & Ridge

02:00 PMTransfer to Vernou-en-Sologne

05:45 PMCheck-in and time to freshen up or to explore the surroundings

07:00 PMDinner at the hotel

 

Day 6: Thursday, May 14 – Château de Chambord

07:00 AM Breakfast

08:30 AMBike ride (option A) – La Borde en Sologne to Château de Chambord: 27.3 mi/43.9 km – 564 ft/170 m elevation gain

12:00 PM​Lunch break in Chambord

01:00 PM​Guided visit of Château de Chambord

02:30 PM​Free time in Chambord

03:00 PMBike ride (option B) – Château de Chambord to La Borde en Sologne: 19.6 mi/31.5 km – 351 ft/107 m elevation gain

05:15 PM​Free evening to enjoy the hotel’s facilitiesor to further explore the area on your own 

 

Day 7: Friday, May 15 – Château de Chenonceau – Amboise – Blois

07:00 AM Breakfast

09:15 AMVisit Château de Chenonceau

11:30 AMBike ride (option A) – Château de Chenonceau to Amboise: 13.3 mi/21.4 km – 354 ft/108 m elevation gain

01:00 PM​Lunch break in Amboise

02:30 PMBike ride (option B) – Amboise to Blois: 26.2 mi/42.2 km – 653 ft/199 m elevation gain

05:30 PM ​Introduction to Blois

06:15 PMFree time to explore and have dinner in Blois

08:15 PMTaxi transfer to our hotel

 

Day 8: Saturday, May 16 – Beaugency

07:00 AM Breakfast

08:15 AMBike ride (option A) – La Borde en Sologne to Beaugency: 27.8 mi/43.9 km – 427 ft/130 m elevation gain

11:30 AM​Explore Beaugency’s Saturday market

12:00 PM​More free time for lunch and to exploreBeaugency

02:00 PMBike ride (option B) – Beaugency to La Borde en Sologne: 23.5 mi/37.8 km – 466 ft/142 m elevation gain

07:30 PMFarewell Dinner at La Margot’ine

 

Day 9: Sunday, May 17 – return journey

04:30 AMCheck-out 

04:45 AMTaxi transfer to Paris Orly airport

09:55 AM Flight# TP 0453 to Porto (OPO)